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The term "vegan leather" circulates freely in the fashion industry, often with little regard for technical accuracy. The result is persistent confusion that deserves to be clarified.
Misuse of Language: Why the Term is Technically Incorrect, and Sometimes Prohibited.
In English, the word "leather" legally refers to an animal hide that has undergone a tanning treatment. This designation is regulated. Therefore, referring to a material of botanical origin as "vegan leather" constitutes a misuse of language, or even an infringement of product labeling regulations. Some brands nevertheless use this wording for its positive image, even though the product does not contain any animal hide.
True Leather vs. Plant-Based Alternative: Two Origins, Two Realities.
Animal leather comes from animal hides, usually bovine, transformed to become resistant, supple, and durable. Materials referred to as "plant-based" are, on the other hand, made from plant fibers or plant waste from the agri-food industry, recomposed to imitate the appearance and feel of leather. The common point? The appearance. The true nature of the material: radically different.
The Legal Framework: The Designation "Leather" is Reserved for Animal Hide.
In Europe, as in France, the regulation is clear: only treated animal hide can legally be called "leather." Any other material must be designated by its exact name (imitation leather, vegan imitation leather, coated textile) so as not to mislead the consumer
Durability is at the heart of material selection. Here's how these different leather types perform over time.
Strength: two materials, two profiles.
Vegetable-tanned leather has proven resistance over decades. Its dense structure, obtained through natural tannins deeply penetrating the animal hide fibers, gives it a strength that few materials can match. Vegan alternatives made from natural plant fibers are progressing, but their longevity varies depending on composition and manufacturing quality. A natural leather bag can last for years, even generations.
The test of time: the patina of animal leather vs. vegetable aging.
Vegetable-tanned leather develops a distinctive patina over time. Exposed to light, temperature variations, and daily use, it darkens, personalizes, and gains character. It's this ability to evolve without degrading that makes it unique. Vegan leathers age differently: some hold up well, others crumble or crack. Their carbon footprint and life cycle also vary greatly depending on manufacturing processes.
Maintenance: the right steps to make your accessories last.
Vegetable-tanned leather does not require complex maintenance: that's one of its strengths. A few simple steps are enough to preserve its beauty and extend its lifespan. Find all our advice in our leather care guide and our article on how to clean a leather bag. To go further, our care products are selected to respect the material without altering it.
Durability is at the heart of material selection. Here's how these different types of leather perform over time.
Durability: two materials, two profiles.
Vegetable-tanned leather boasts proven resistance over decades. Its dense structure, obtained through natural tannins deeply penetrating animal hide fibers, gives it a strength that few materials can match. Vegan alternatives based on natural plant fibers are progressing, but their longevity varies depending on composition and manufacturing quality. A natural leather bag can last for years, even generations.
The test of time: the patina of animal leather vs. plant-based aging.
Vegetable-tanned leather develops a distinctive patina over time. Exposed to light, temperature variations, and daily use, it darkens, customizes itself, and gains character. It's this ability to evolve without degrading that makes it unique. Vegan leathers age differently: some hold up well, others crumble or crack. Their carbon footprint and life cycle also vary greatly depending on manufacturing processes.
Maintenance: the right steps to make your accessories last.
Vegetable-tanned leather does not require complex maintenance: this is one of its strengths. A few simple steps are enough to preserve its beauty and extend its lifespan. Find all our advice in our leather care guide and our article on how to clean a leather bag. To go further, our care products are selected to respect the material without altering it.
Vegetable-tanned leather is not naturally waterproof. Its pores remain open, allowing it to "breathe," but also to absorb moisture. Treatment with a natural wax or suitable waterproofing agent is enough to protect it without altering its appearance. Vegan alternatives, depending on their composition, may offer better water resistance, especially when they incorporate a synthetic backing.
Not systematically, but often. A large proportion of the vegan leathers available on the market are based on PVC or polyurethane (plastics). Only certain innovative materials are truly free of these, sometimes completely, sometimes partially. When purchasing, it is essential to check the exact composition. Whether it's vegan leather or animal leather, the word "leather" alone does not guarantee anything about the presence or absence of synthetic chemicals.
Vegetable-tanned leather is generally more expensive than chrome-tanned leather. The process is slower, more artisanal, and the natural leathers selected are of higher quality. For high-end vegan alternatives, such as mycelium, prices are also high, reflecting the cost of research and manufacturing processes. In contrast, basic synthetic vegan leather is often cheaper. At nat & nin, the price reflects the quality of the animal leather selected, the expertise of our workshops, and the durability of a piece designed to last.