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A beautiful handbag deserves to be taken care of. Leather is a living material, made from carefully selected cowhides. At nat & nin, we mainly work with full-grain leather, a noble skin that retains its entire original surface and develops a natural patina over time. But for it to age well, leather care cannot be improvised.
Before touching anything, there's a golden rule: know the material you're dealing with. A product suitable for smooth leather can damage suede leather or a nubuck bag. And a misdiagnosis can be irreparable.
At nat & nin, several types of leather coexist in our collections:
- Smooth leather: waxed feel, semi-glossy appearance, made from full-grain cowhide. It's our flagship material, robust and timeless.
- Suede leather / velvet leather / peach-skin leather: matte appearance and soft to the touch, with visible fibers. It requires special attention as it is more sensitive to stains and moisture.
- Nubuck leather: also with short fibers, it resembles suede but comes from the grain side of the skin, which makes it more resistant. A nubuck bag is not treated like smooth leather.
- Grained leather: embossed surface, more scratch-resistant.
- Patent leather: shiny and lacquered, it requires very specific products.
Leather split, on the other hand, refers to the lower layers of the skin once the grain has been separated. Less noble than full-grain leather from respectful vegetable tanning, it is more fragile and requires gentle care.
Nat & nin tip: if in doubt about the nature of your leather, consult our material care guide or our detailed fact sheets for smooth leather, peach-skin & suede leather, grained leather, and glazed leather.
Rigorous leather care doesn't have to be complicated. Here's a care routine designed to preserve the quality of your handbag's leather in the long term.
~ Step 1: Dusting, the often-forgotten step
Before any wet cleaning, always start dry. Dust and fine particles embed themselves in the leather fibers and, if not removed beforehand, can scratch the surface during cleaning.
For smooth leather, use a soft brush, such as an oval brush with natural bristles like the Saphir Oval Brush, making light circular motions over the entire surface of the bag. This silk-bristle brush is ideal for enhancing shine without damaging the protective film of the leather.
For velvet leather, nubuck leather, or suede, the action is different. Opt for a suede eraser to remove small superficial marks, then use a suede brush or a specialized suede brush to raise the fibers. A low-power hand vacuum can also be used to remove dust without rubbing.
Don't neglect the details: remember to maintain zippers with a dry cloth to prevent deposits that can eventually block the mechanism.
~ Step 2: Gentle cleaning with a universal milk or cream
Once the surface is dusted, it's time for gentle cleaning. This step removes light dirt, evens out the leather, and prepares the hide to receive nourishing care.
For smooth and grained leathers, apply a cleaning milk or a cleaning lotion (such as Saphir Cleaning Lotion) with a clean cloth, working in circular motions. The cleaning milk penetrates without damaging the surface and lifts impurities.
Absolutely avoid Marseille soap, white vinegar, or any other household product: white vinegar is acidic and can permanently dull the color of smooth or grained leather. The same applies to Pierre d'Argent, which is too abrasive for this type of material.
For velvet, nubuck, and suede leathers, never use a non-specific liquid product. Opt for a specialized suede cleaning soap or a specialized nubuck cleaning product, applied with a crepe brush that cleans deeply without crushing the fibers. The crepe brush is an essential tool for maintaining these delicate leathers.
~ Step 3: Hydration to prevent drying and cracking
Leather, like skin, needs to be nourished. Without regular hydration, it dries out, loses its suppleness, and eventually cracks. Cracked leather is difficult to repair, so prevention is the best strategy.
After cleaning (or alone, for regular maintenance), massage the leather with a leather conditioner or an appropriate moisturizing cream. At nat & nin, we recommend Saphir Universal Cream, colorless or tinted depending on your bag: it acts like a true nourishing milk for leather, deeply nourishing the fibers while leaving a slight glossy finish.
Apply in circular motions, with your fingertips or a soft cloth, over the entire handbag, including the handles and sides, which are often forgotten but heavily used. Allow to penetrate for a few minutes, then buff with a chamois cloth to reveal the leather's natural shine. This special nourishing leather care can be used on smooth, grained, and even some textured leathers, provided they are not varnished.
For nubuck leather and velvet leather, classic leather conditioner is not recommended as it can cause fibers to stick together or stain. Opt for a specific waterproofing product that nourishes and protects simultaneously.
~ Step 4: Polishing for shine (only applies to certain types of leather)
Polishing is an optional step, reserved for smooth leathers with high shine potential. It revives colors, hides minor scratches, and provides the characteristic luster of beautiful leather bags.
Use a polishing cream in a color suitable for your bag: black for a black bag, colorless for natural or beige leather. Apply a thin layer with a soft brush or cloth, wait for it to dry, then buff vigorously with a chamois cloth. The result is immediate: the leather regains intensity and a beautiful depth of color.
Caution: polishing is absolutely not recommended for velvet leather, nubuck leather, suede leather, and patent leather. On these materials, it would clog the pores or create impossible-to-remove stains.
Even with the best care routine, accidents happen. Rule number one: act fast. The longer a stain sets, the harder—or even impossible—it becomes to remove. Here’s how to react to the most common situations.
Removing a grease stain from leather (oil, makeup)
Did vegetable oil, foundation, or cream drip onto your leather bag? Whatever you do, don't rub it: you'll only spread the grease and push it deeper into the fibers.
Start by blotting up the excess with a dry cloth or absorbent paper. Then sprinkle a small amount of "terre de Sommières" (fuller's earth) directly onto the stain and let it sit for several hours (ideally overnight). Terre de Sommières is a natural clay that deeply absorbs grease. Once dry, gently brush it off with a soft brush. Baking powder can play a similar role in an emergency, but terre de Sommières remains more effective on ingrained stains.
If the stain persists, apply a specialized cleaning milk with gentle circular motions. Avoid harsh chemical products that could alter the color or texture of the leather.
Removing pen or ink marks
Ink stains are among the most dreaded on a handbag. For smooth leather, a specialized pen stain remover (like Hussard Ballpoint Pen Stain Remover) is your best ally. Apply a few drops to a cotton pad, dab gently without rubbing, and repeat until the stain disappears.
On suede or nubuck bags, it's essential to use a specific stain remover for these materials. A suede eraser can also lighten minor marks before applying a more powerful product.
What not to do: never attempt to clean ink with bleach, acetone, or white vinegar. These corrosive chemicals would irrevocably destroy the leather and its color.
What to do if your bag gets wet in the rain?
Rain is the enemy of unprotected leather. If your handbag gets wet, under no circumstances should you bring it near a heat source (radiator, hairdryer, direct sun exposure). Heat dries leather too abruptly, causes deformation, and accelerates the appearance of cracks.
Blot surface water with a soft, absorbent cloth, then let it air dry at room temperature, away from UV rays. Once dry, the leather may be slightly stiff: apply a leather conditioner to restore its suppleness and shine.
To avoid this situation, preventive waterproofing is the best protection against bad weather; see the dedicated section below.
Color transfer: the pitfall of raw denim on a light-colored bag
This is the most common and often the most difficult accident to correct. Unwashed raw denim bleeds its pigments on contact with light-colored leather and can leave indelible blue marks. The reverse phenomenon also exists: a brightly colored handbag can bleed onto light-colored clothing.
To limit damage on smooth leather, quickly apply a cleaning milk with very gentle circular motions, without aggressive rubbing. On suede or nubuck, the situation is even more delicate: avoid all liquids and consult a professional if necessary. The real solution remains prevention: avoid light-colored leather/dark raw denim combinations, and always waterproof your bag.
The color of your leather bag directly affects the products you should use and the frequency of regular maintenance.
Restoring the luster of a black or brown leather bag
These colors better conceal everyday marks, but they tend to dull and turn gray over time, especially due to UV rays. For a black or brown leather bag, opt for a universal cream tinted with the correct color, applied in a thin layer with a soft cloth. The natural patina that develops gradually is a treasure: it indicates living, quality leather.
For black leathers, a tinted renovator spray can also restore color intensity without making the surface heavy. Don't forget friction areas (handles, corners, around zippers) which lighten first.
Maintaining the purity of a beige or camel bag
Light tones are beautiful but demanding. A beige or camel handbag reveals the slightest mark, the slightest stain. Regular maintenance is even more crucial here.
Exclusively use colorless products: colorless nourishing milk, colorless leather conditioner, transparent waterproofing spray. Never try to fix a stain with a tinted product under the pretext of "covering" it: you would create an even more visible result. For light leathers, waterproofing upon purchase is highly recommended.
Leather care is not just about active maintenance. Proper storage and preventive protection are equally crucial for preserving the long-term value of your bag.
Waterproofing: Your Invisible Shield
Leather waterproofing is arguably the most effective and underestimated protective measure. Applied to clean, dry leather, it forms an invisible film that repels water, limits superficial stains, and slows down wear and tear caused by moisture. It's essential weather protection, especially if you carry your handbag daily.
For smooth or grained leather, use a classic leather waterproofing spray, applied from 20 cm away in an even layer. Allow it to air dry completely before use. For suede, nubuck, or chamois bags, there's a specific waterproofing product for these materials; do not interchange them. The recommended frequency is once a month for regular use.
How to store your handbag to prevent it from losing its shape?
Proper storage begins as soon as you put your bag down. Here are some good habits:
Always store your handbag in a fabric dust bag (not in a plastic bag, which prevents the material from breathing). This fabric protection shields it from dust while allowing air to circulate. Every Nat & Nin bag comes with its fabric dust bag, so keep it carefully.
Lightly stuff the inside of the bag with tissue paper to help it maintain its shape. Store it upright, never flat under other objects. Keep it away from heat sources and prolonged sun exposure, as UV rays can discolor and weaken leather, regardless of its quality.
Some errors, even well-intentioned ones, can irremediably damage your bag. Here's a blacklist to keep in mind:
- Never use household chemicals (bleach, detergent, dish soap, acetone) on leather. These corrosive substances destroy the finish and can permanently discolour the material.
- Never expose your leather bag to a direct heat source to speed up drying: a radiator, hairdryer, or too much sun exposure will irremediably crack the leather.
- Never use white vinegar on a leather handbag. This is a common misconception that can dull and disfigure the surface, especially on light shades and vegetable-tanned leathers.
- Never overfill your bag beyond its natural capacity: seams and zippers are the first points of weakness.
- Never rub a stain vigorously: you'll spread it and embed it further. Always blot.
- Never store without protection: a leather bag placed unprotected on a shelf will accumulate dust and micro-scratches. The fabric dust bag is your everyday ally.
The frequency depends on the type of leather and the intensity of use. For smooth leather worn regularly, applying leather conditioner or moisturizing cream once a month is a good rhythm. For suede or nubuck bags, nourishing care is done less often, but the brushing care routine remains weekly. In summer, UV rays and heat accelerate drying: slightly increase the frequency. A complete care kit (brush, cleaning milk, nourishing cream, waterproofing spray) allows you to have everything at hand so you never skip a step.
Yes. White vinegar is an acid that can permanently alter the pH and color of leather. While some sources recommend it as a home remedy, we strongly advise against using it on a quality leather bag, whether it's smooth leather, suede, or vegetable-tanned leather. The risks of discoloration, stiffening, or dulling are real and often irreversible. Always opt for care products specifically formulated for cleaning leather.
Specialized leather cleansing milk or nourishing milk, yes, absolutely. Cow's milk from the refrigerator, no. A professional cleansing milk is formulated with gentle cleansing agents and fats suitable for the structure of leather. It cleans without stripping and prepares the surface to receive a moisturizing treatment. Food-grade milk, on the other hand, contains water, proteins, and sugars that can ferment and deteriorate the material.
To learn more, discover our selection of care products, our leather bags and leather handbags, our leather shoulder bags, as well as our nat & nin workshops where our experts welcome you for in-person advice.
